Adobe Lightroom Histogram Cheat Sheet
Learn how to use the master the histogram in this tutorial. Continue reading
Adobe Lightroom Histogram Cheat Sheet
Learn how to use the master the histogram in this tutorial. Continue reading
In the age of digital – light meters have, for the most part, lost popularity with photographers. With digital cameras it is easy enough to just take a photo, review the image immediately, and adjust your exposure as necessary. However, If you want to take the guess work out of getting perfect exposure then an incident light meter may be for you.
Note: If you don’t know why you need a light meter check out Light meters are dead, long live the light meter!
The Gossen Luna-Pro is the best light meter I’ve found used for less than $100. Is is an older model analog light meter and as a result takes a little more effort however as you will see it is still quick and easy to take a reading and you can take the money you saved and put it towards some new glass.
Side note: The Gossen Luna-Pro also works with flash which is a nice perk.
Here is a quick tutorial for taking a meter reading with the Gossen Luna-Pro (Other analog meters should be similar).
Step 1: Set the ISO (ASA).
Step 2: Taking a meter reading:
Step 3: Reading the exposure values:
Note: Any other shutter speed + aperture combinations that line up on the meter will produce the same exposure.
Digital cameras are getting surprisingly good at capturing proper exposure in most lighting conditions. Cameras judge proper exposure based on how much light is reflecting off of the scene back to the camera. This is called “Reflective Metering”. The camera compares the reflected light value against 18% gray (middle gray). This method works out fine when a majority of the metered area is a medium color however, is problematic when shooting bright or dark scenes.
For example, say you were to take a photo of a snow covered field in bright sunlight. If you meter your exposure off of the snow the image would turn out under-exposed and the snow would look gray instead of bright white. Why? because the camera is trying to map the bright white of the snow – which encompasses most of the image – to 18% gray.
There are a number of ways to combat this problem. Here are a few common ones:
Using a gray card like this one , or a light meter are also great ways to help take the guess work out of figuring out the proper exposure. Using the camera’s spot metering setting and metering off of a mid tone color in the scene works great also.